Wednesday, October 21

Experience throughout Iceland on a Norse horse: Not anything beats assembly the Viking steeds delivered to this frozen land 1,000 years in the past

It’s a hardy beast that may stand Iceland’s parts year-round. However even if lashing snow clings to their teddy-bear-like coats, Icelandic horses can. They’re Viking inventory, in spite of everything, having been purebred for 1,000 years, and, in spite of their low-slung our bodies, I’ve been promised the smoothest horse journey on the planet.

In a abandoned nook of west Iceland, close to Borgarnes, our staff of riders swagger out of the pen. Gudmar, who runs Hestaland horseriding right here, inhales the biting air. ‘There’s no higher option to get with regards to nature than being on horseback in the course of nowhere,’ he says, gesturing to miles of golden grass and half-frozen swimming pools. ‘You realize stuff you most often wouldn’t.’

The little fawn-coloured steed I’ve been given provides me just a few inches of additional peak, however I’m seeing the panorama from a brand new point of view. Lengthy, late-afternoon shadows of our troupe bob underneath a row of light-bathed white mountains, marking the magical Snaefellsnes peninsula.

Viking stock: Hardy Icelandic horses braving the ice and snow on the Snaefellsnes peninsula

Viking inventory: Hardy Icelandic horses braving the ice and snow at the Snaefellsnes peninsula

It is probably not your standard overdue summer time vacation, however of the entire years that is definitely the only to include the good open air. With such a lot of locations off the desk, Iceland is one position you’re unfastened to roam anywhere you favor. There’s lately a quarantine duration of 5 days while you arrive, with Covid checks earlier than and after (the primary prices £50 upfront, the second one is unfastened), however that’s being reassessed weekly and there’s no want to self-isolate for your go back.

But even so, overdue summer time and early autumn is a impressive time to seek advice from. The times are nonetheless lengthy, the temperature hovers round 10C and even though you enjoy the primary snow, it’s no problem to force round at the very good roads.

Moss and shrubs smothering the basalt rocks flip dramatic orange and gold, whilst nights can also be darkish sufficient to look the Northern Lighting fixtures.

It is usually the one position the place horses can fly. As a substitute of the standard 3 gaits (stroll, trot, canter/gallop), Icelandic horses, uniquely, have 5. All of sudden perked up via a downward slope, my Hestaland horse bursts right into a merry four-beat single-foot gait, referred to as ‘tolt’.

It places the wind previous my cheeks however feels as easy as floating on a magic carpet. The 5th tools is a 35mph ‘flying tempo’. I depart that one to Gudmar.

Those magical beasts – whose ancestors are concept to had been introduced right here via Norse settlers 1,000 years in the past – nonetheless play a key phase in Icelandic lifestyles. They’re used as shipping in heavy snow, and every spring whole communities soar directly to horseback to around up farmers’ wild-roaming sheep.

Window on the wild: Fantastic views of mountains and lava fields from the lounge at the Hotel Budir

Window at the wild: Implausible perspectives of mountains and lava fields from the living room on the Lodge Budir 

That imaginative and prescient, of folks residing with regards to nature, is best possible skilled on this western area. Inside of simple achieve of Reykjavik (the place greater than half of of the rustic’s 360,000 inhabitants reside) however past the tourist-trodden Golden Circle, it was once a superbly wild position to seek advice from even earlier than the arena grew to become the wrong way up.

That’s to not say there isn’t luxurious right here. 90 mins from the capital and I enjoy warming up as Icelanders do at Krauma baths, enveloped via steaming-hot geothermal water and the silence of the encircling hills, as I’m passed a frothy beer.

Over 4 days, native information Thor drives me around the west’s highlights. We cruise amongst snow-spotted lava fields and mountains mirrored in curving lakes. With out a forests, those dramatic scenes appear to stretch into infinity.

A lot of it appears simply because the Vikings would have discovered it. They concept this explosive and unfertile island was once haunted when their longships landed, a story recounted on the Agreement Centre in Borgarnes. 

This tiny the town, on a rocky shore in the course of west Iceland, is a gateway to the area. A brief force away I discover a contact of Viking on the Stedji beer brewery, within the type of a Welshman referred to as Morgan. He appears the phase: windswept lengthy hair, fur-topped boots and Icelandic knit. At a dinner party desk laid with candles held via twisted rams’ horns, he opens a sour-tasting brew, Northern Lighting fixtures. ‘For those who drink sufficient of it, you could simply see them for actual,’ he winks. Immediately from glaciers, water here’s so natural that Iceland has transform a magnet for microbrewers, in spite of beer above 2.25 in step with cent being banned till 1989.

Spectacular: Nights can be dark enough to see the Northern Lights, pictured above over Snaefellsnes peninsula

Impressive: Nights can also be darkish sufficient to look the Northern Lighting fixtures, pictured above over Snaefellsnes peninsula


Icelandair () has go back flights from Heathrow to Reykjavik from £74 in September. Lodge Budir () has rooms from £106 an evening. Hestaland horseback using () from £128pp for a half-day trek. Grand Summit Excursion on Snaefellsjokull glacier from £148pp (). Discuss with .


As alluring as beer and bathing are, quickly a way of journey leads us to the 56-mile-long Snaefellsnes peninsula. Continuously described as Iceland in miniature because of its variety of mountains, sleepy fishing villages and gothic black-sand seashores, its jewel is the Snaefellsjokull glacier at its tip, immortalised in Jules Verne’s 1864 novel Adventure To The Centre Of The Earth.

After a lurching snowcat journey up an lively volcano to achieve it, we arm ourselves with icepicks for the quick hike to the second one summit (the head is a harness-and-ropes task). I catch a glimpse of my hair: crispy, coiled, frozen and stunning white. ‘How chilly is it?’ I shout to the chief of Summit Journey Guides – any other Thor. ‘Minus 10. With this wind, regardless that, looks like minus 15.’

Breathlessly attaining the highest, our frozen international is in complete view. Wispy clouds skimming the decrease peaks glance so elegant, I will see why Snaefellsjokull is thought of as probably the most seven chakras (power centres) of the planet.

Backpedal to earth, warming comforts come at Lodge Budir, the place shellfish soup made with smoked buttermilk is dished out in a candle-lit eating room. Dealing with the rumbling waves of Europe’s far-west edge, this homely sanctuary is a sparkling speck within the darkness of the again of past.

At the highway the following morning we go an emergency refuge stocked with dry meals and gasoline cylinders, left there for automobile breakdowns in heavy iciness climate. Thor shrugs. ‘We’ve a well-liked announcing in Iceland that interprets as “it’ll all figure out OK”.’ Right here, they only get on with it.

Mysterious because it as soon as was once, it’s now simple for individuals who come to west Iceland to discover even its maximum far off treasures. Despite the fact that there’s all the time the strategy to enjoy this wild land because the Vikings did; hovering around the tundra at the again of a flying horse.